The average French cook cannot understand why these "lumps of sweetness" do not require long cooking and elaborate sauces to make them palatable, and these cooks invariably spoil them. Pluck and draw the birds, leaving the heads on. Put into a frying-pan an ounce of sweet butter; when hot, add six birds; toss them about to cook evenly; add a little salt and pepper; let them remain over the fire for about three minutes, and serve on a hot dish.
To cook them in large quantities, as they are prepared by the gunners at their club-houses along the Delaware, proceed as follows: Clean them properly; arrange them in a baking-tin; add a liberal quantity of butter, salt, and pepper; put the pan in the oven. At the end of five minutes turn them with a long-handled spoon, let them cook five minutes longer, and serve.
An excellent way to serve them at late breakfast-parties is as follows: Pluck and draw the birds, and remove their heads. Take a few large long potatoes; cut them in two crosswise; scrape out part of the inside; place a bird in each half of potato; press the halves together, tie them with twine, and bake until the potatoes are done. Remove the common twine and tie them up again with narrow tape or ribbon. Send to table on a napkin.